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Our Old Fashioned MILK PAINT is a re-creation of the
ancient MILK PAINT formula used for centuries before the
sale of commercially made paints. It is an authentic
finish for use in the restoration of antiques or in the
reproduction of antique furniture. It comes in rich
colors that are durable and do not fade. Also, since our
real MILK PAINT is made from elements that pre-date the
use of petrochemicals and other toxic bases and
solvents, it is biodegradable, non-toxic, and odor-free
when dry. Our MILK PAINT is preferred by custom
furniture builders, interior designers, artists,
craftsmen, do-it-yourselfers, and those who are
sensitive to the need to protect the environment.
APPLICATIONS
Our MILK PAINT is used to achieve an authentic "old look" for furniture, floors, cupboards, woodwork, walls,
signs, toys, and stenciling. It penetrates into all
clean, porous (unfinished) surfaces. Mixed with our
EXTRA-BOND, it will also adhere to just about any
non-porous surface. With a topcoat finish of CLEAR COAT,
to seal the painted surface, it can be used for
furniture subject to fingerprints and spills. For
surfaces expected to receive heavier wear, we recommend
using a heavy-duty topcoat. An oil or solvent-based
sealer is recommended for kitchen cabinets as acrylics
may not protect against certain kitchen oils such as
grease splatters and olive oil spills.
Our MILK PAINT is used by artists and craftsmen to
create decorative results that cannot be achieved with
other paints. The dead flat, uneven, grainy look is
quite distinctive.
Our MILK PAINT is also used for interior walls,
floors and woodwork in homes, offices and public areas
used by people allergic or otherwise sensitive to
chemically based paints.
ADVANTAGES
- Produces an authentic Colonial or Shaker finish
- Adheres to almost all clean, porous surfaces
- Environmentally safe, non-toxic and anti-bacterial
- Non-flammable
- Dead flat finish
- Solvent free
- Fast drying
- Odorless when dry
- Longest lasting paint known
- Permanent; will not fade
- Easily cleaned up with water
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
| Color:
Available
as a translucent base to which pigment can be
added for an infinite variety of hues, tones and
shades. |
Non-Flammable |
| State: Dry
Powder |
Non-Combustible |
| Mixing
Medium: Water |
Environmental
Safety: Biodegradable and non-toxic |
| Mixing
Temperature: Mixes best with warm water |
Thinner:
Water |
| VOC's: None
- entirely solvent free |
Clean Up:
Soap and Water |
| Odor: Faint
milky odor when wet, odorless when dry |
Drying
Time: Dry to the touch, 30 mins To re-coat,
wait two hours. Cures and hardens over time. |
| Shelf Life:
In sealed bag, indefinitely. As liquid, overnight,
seal and refrigerate. |
|
AVAILABLE SIZES
| one pint |
6 oz. powder, plus water |
covers approximately 35 square
feet |
| one quart |
12 oz. powder, plus water |
covers approximately 75 square
feet |
| one gallon |
48 oz. powder, plus water |
covers approximately 300
square feet |
MILK PAINT DIRECTIONS
Very Important: Please read this entire
Direction Sheet before using this product.
Porous Surfaces: Milk paint, like all water
paints, adheres best to a porous surface, such as bare
wood or masonry.
Nonporous Surfaces: Our Extra-Bond additive
will help the milk paint adhere to MOST clean, sound
nonporous surfaces.
SIMPLE TO USE
| 1} |
Mix: Measure about equal
amounts of water and powder into separate
containers. The one pint package contains about
1-1/2 cups of powder, and when mixed with 1-1/2
cups of water it will make about 1 pint of paint.
(Note: warm water helps.) |
| 2} |
Apply: Apply with a dry
brush, roller or spray gun. Natural bristle
brushes are fine, but foam brushes may require
less effort and leave fewer brush marks. Milk
paint is naturally somewhat streaky in color. This
is normal. The most even color is achieved by
spraying. Next best for evenness is by roller
application. Again, you may find that foam rollers
are easier to control. For spraying, paint should
be a little thinner than for brushing, and should
be strained. Spray with conventional spray
equipment at about 30 lbs. pressure. Adjust
pressure and nozzle to get a good paint film, not
dry and not runny. With a little practice you
should be able to spray a Windsor chair in about 3
or 4 minutes. Remember always wear proper
protection when spraying any paint. |
| 3} |
Clean up: Clean all tools
now with water and a Scotch-brite pad so that the
paint doesn't dry on them. |
MIXING TIPS
Small Amounts: When mixing small containers of
the paint by hand it is easiest to make a paste of the
powder with some of the water and stir until smooth,
like making gravy, using a rubber spatula or paint
stick. Then gradually add more water until you reach the
desired consistency.
Large Amounts: When mixing up larger amounts
it may be easier to mix equal amounts of water and
powder together using a wire paint paddle on a drill or
similar method, on lowest speed, being careful not to
mix too fast which can create foam.
Timing: Mix thoroughly for 2-3 minutes. Then
let stand for 10-15 minutes so everything has a chance
to disperse completely.
Strain: Sometimes powder lumps don't fully
dissolve. You may want to strain the mixed paint through
a paper mesh paint funnel, a piece of cheesecloth, or,
better still, a piece of nylon stocking.
Stir: Stir paint every 10 minutes or so while
using, and add more water to the proper consistency if
the paint thickens.
Best Used Fresh: Milk paint is always best
mixed up fresh. If you happen to have leftover paint, or
need to wait a day to finish your project you may keep
any unused paint in a sealed container in the
refrigerator (even plastic wrap held in place with a
rubber band is fine). It keeps best if mixed on the
thinner side, even with a thin layer of water put on top
of the paint mixture. Being true to the original
formulas we do not add unnatural preservatives or
extenders to our paint and due to its organic nature it
can thicken and gel up over time, so it is best to mix
up what you plan to use that day if possible. Any unused
powder can be stored indefinitely in an airtight
container such as a jar.
(A) POROUS SURFACES PAINTING
PROCEDURES
New wood or other porous surfaces
such as masonry.
Note: No primer is necessary - the first coat
acts as its own primer on most softwoods and
open-grained hardwoods. However, close-grained hardwoods
such as maple or birch will require an initial coat of
milk paint with Extra-Bond added, as in "B-2" below.
| A-1} |
Clean: Wipe down the item
with a damp rag to remove any dust and to
pre-dampen the surface. |
| A-2} |
Seal: Then, seal knots, if
any (optional) with shellac (apply first coat of
milk paint while the shellac is still tacky) OR
paint knots with a mixture of prepared milk paint
with Extra-Bond added, as in "B-2" below. You may
also add the Extra-Bond into your entire first
coat if desired. |
| A-3} |
First Coat: Paint the
entire item with a first coat of milk paint. |
| A-4} |
Second Coat: After an hour
or more, if you wish, you can rub down the first
coat lightly with a Scotch-brite pad, fine
sandpaper, or non-oiled steel wool. Now, if it
looks like it needs it, you can apply a second
coat of straight milk paint. |
| A-5} |
Finished: If you like the
look and the rough texture, your masterpiece is
finished!! |
| A-6} |
Optional: After a couple
of hours, or overnight, you may wish to rub down
to a satin-smooth finish and/or "distress" the
finish. You can rub down the surface as in No. 4
above or do any type of distressing at this time.
Be sure to try any of these techniques on a test
piece to be sure you will like the end
result. |
| A-7} |
Prevent Water Spotting: We
recommend sealing the paint on any surface that is
susceptible to spills or in a damp area or if you
will want to be able to wash the surface. Without
a sealer the paint is fine but it will water spot
and readily absorb dirt. Any sealer will work over
the milk paint, but again, it is important to test
the finish over a painted scrap to be sure that
you like the end result. Penetrating oils such as
linseed, tung, or blended oils like Watco Danish
Oil will deepen the color considerably, but are
beautiful over the milk paint, especially on a
piece of furniture such as a chair. Wax is fine,
too, but, as with the above oils, may not protect
enough against coffee cup rings, for example, on a
tabletop. Clear gel finishes and most solvent
based finishes usually work well as sealers but
like oils and waxes, do darken the paint color,
and can tend to yellow a bit which may be of
concern if you are using a white milk paint.
However, we have developed our own finish, CLEAR
COAT, a non-toxic, water-borne, clear satin
acrylic. We believe that it has some advantages
over the others mentioned. Our CLEAR COAT is a low
odor hard, non-yellowing acrylic that works well,
can be brushed or sprayed, is fast drying, and
darkens the paint least of all. However, like any
acrylic, it may not protect against certain
kitchen oils and grease splatters. For that
reason, an oil or solvent based sealer may be the
best option for kitchen cabinets. On floors use a
sealer meant for floors for best
protection. |
(B) WALL PAINTING PROCEDURES
New
wallboard and new plaster.
| B-1} |
Prepare Surface: On
sheetrock or masonry that has joint compound over
joints and nails, "joint banding" or
"photographing" may produce problems caused by the
differences in porosities and surface texture of
the face paper of the sheetrock or the roughness
of masonry and the smoothness of the joint
compound. When viewed in direct lighting, the
joints may be visible. To avoid this phenomenon,
an initial coat of "Sheetrock First Coat" or
equivalent flat latex wall primer (available at
most paint stores) is advisable. We have also had
good luck with AFM Safecoat New Wallboard Primer.
Note: We do NOT recommend using primer-sealers
with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin.
Be sure to follow the manufacturer's
recommendations regarding cure time of plasters
and primers before moving on to using the milk
paint. Also, additives in some modern plasters may
inhibit proper adhesion of the milk paint in some
cases, which is another reason that we suggest the
use of primers for plaster as well as sheetrock
surfaces. |
| B-2} |
Extra-Bond: To use the
Extra-Bond, first mix the milk paint with water
according to the directions in "Simple to Use"
mixing section, then add an equal amount of
Extra-Bond, and stir the two liquids together. You
may actually use as little as one part Extra-Bond
to two parts of milk paint, but better adhesion
may be achieved using equal parts. Next, after the
first coat is completely dry, paint a second coat
of straight milk paint. (Extra-Bond is not
necessary in the second coat.) |
| B-3} |
Seal, if desired, as in "A-7,"
above. |
(C) NON-POROUS SURFACES PAINTING
PROCEDURES
Previously painted or otherwise
finished surfaces, any other non-porous surface such as
glass, metal, enamel or pre-primed material.
Note: Unless you know the condition of the
surfaces beneath previous coats of finish, we do caution
you about the use of milk paint over multiple layers of
paint that may have been applied without proper cleaning
beforehand. Milk paint dries very rapidly and shrinks in
all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on
the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases
to cause the weakly bonded underlayers to peel off,
thereby creating serious problems. We also do not
recommend using milk paint over primer-sealers with
stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin.
| C-1} |
Prepare Surface: Good
finishing practice states that any surface to be
painted or repainted must be cleaned and dulled,
not shiny. All grime should be removed with a
washing soda such as T.S.P. and shiny surfaces
should be scuffed up with sandpaper. Surface must
be clean, sound and free of oil, grease, dust and
dirt. By ignoring this practice, the new paint may
not adhere well and future coats could peel off
when repainted. |
| C-2} |
Test Surface: For
previously painted multiple coated surfaces, it is
very important to also test the layers of paint
for adhesion to each other. This is to be sure
that the old paint won't peel off and take the new
paint with it. First, cut a one inch long "X" in
the old paint film with a razor blade or sharp
knife. It's best to do this in a few different
areas. Then apply a strip of Scotch tape or
masking tape over the "X", and rub the tape on
firmly. Then pull it off quickly. If the old paint
comes off with the tape, you have poor adhesion,
usually created from re-painting over grime. |
| C-3} |
Remove Old Paint: If the
old paint films have poor adhesion, we do not
recommend painting over with any water paint,
including milk paint. The old paint should be
removed by stripping or sanding and scraping. If
you don't remove it, the new paint may lift off
the old paint, at least in some areas. |
| C-4} |
Neutralize: On any
surfaces that have been chemically stripped of
finish, be sure to neutralize any residual
chemicals by wiping the surface with a 50/50
vinegar and water solution prior to
re-painting. |
| C-5} |
Prime Metal: Raw metal
should be primed with a rust inhibiting
primer. |
| C-6} |
Extra-Bond: Apply one coat
of milk paint with Extra-Bond added, as in "B-2",
above, followed by a second coat of straight milk
paint. This will work on MOST clean surfaces where
previous layers are sound and not weakly bonded as
shown above, and that have been prepared for
painting as stated above. If you are unsure of the
surface it is a good idea to test the project
first from start to finish in an unnoticeable
area. |
| C-7} |
Seal, if desired, as in "A-7",
above. |
(D) EXTERIOR USE
We do not recommend milk paint for exterior use as it
will water spot in the rain (except for white paint).
However, multiple coats of a clear exterior finish will
seal the paint and prevent water spotting.
Traditionally, milk paint was made waterproof with the
addition of an oil, such as linseed, poppy or peanut
oil. We do not recommend this as the oil may still cause
problems later with mildew or brittleness of the paint
film. And, even with the oil added, the paint may still
water spot.
(E) ADDING PIGMENTS TO MILK PAINT
Each pigment will have a particular ratio of pigment powder to milk paint powder; therefore the ratios we provide are suggested
starting points for testing. We highly recommend measuring by weight rather than volume - this is the most accurate method.
(It is difficult to get a consistent color from batch to batch if measuring by volume.) A small gram kitchen or
postal scale works well for weight measurements.
It is important to try out your test ratio to be sure you have not compromised
the binding power of your milk paint due to over saturation. Too much pigment will result in over thickening of the paint or paint that "powders off" when dry.
25% pigment to the weight of the dry milk paint powder. Water is then determined by volume: 1 part pigment/milk paint mix to 1 or 1+ parts water, (some pigments may absorb more water than others so some experimentation is necessary).
1 part pigment(s)
9 parts paint powder
9 or 10 parts water
Approximate weight of pigment to add to one package of Old Fashioned Milk Paint Base:
| Milk Paint Base |
Pigment |
| 1 Pint package |
42 grams |
| 1 Quart package |
84 grams |
| 1 Gallon package |
336 grams |
Small amounts of paint powder and pigment powder can be mixed dry. Measure out proper ratios of pigment to paint powder in a container with
a tight fitting lid that is large enough to allow for "shaking room". Cover tightly with lid and shake the container vigorously for 1 or 2
minutes. This will disperse the paint particles within the powder to prevent spots of unmixed pigment in your paint.
For larger volumes of paint it is best to mix the pigment into the Milk Paint Base wet.* Known as "slaking", you pre-wet the pigment(s) by mixing
with an equal amount of water. Stir thoroughly into a homogenous paste, making sure all lumps are gone. Helpful tools are popsicle sticks,
wood paint mixers, wire whisks and palette knives.
Then, thoroughly stir this mixture into your batch of prepared milk paint and allow it to rest and continue by mixing as instructed by the Old Fashioned Milk Paint Instructions. Follow the manufacturers
instructions completely to ensure success.
* If you are using Titanium White to lighten your color, it is recommended that you use the slaking method to ensure complete dispersion.
(F) DECORATIVE FINISHES/FAUX FINISHES
Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing,
sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and not a science.
Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance
of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap
or at least on a test area before applying your first
coat on your project. Practice and testing cannot be
overemphasized. The many books and courses available
will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of
practice with small test samples mixed in paper cups.
(G) INGREDIENT QUALITY
Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our milk
paint does contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth
pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives and
no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The
other ingredients are inert materials. All of our
ingredients are food grade or pharmaceutical grade.
(H) ZERO TOXICITY
Milk paint is non-toxic as it contains no
petrochemicals or voc's. When wet, our paint has a
slight earthy milk odor which will disappear in a few
hours. The hydrated lime is highly alkaline, naturally
anti-bacterial and lowers its alkalinity as it catalyzes
with the acidic milk protein. Inert when dry, it can
still have anti-bacterial properties depending on the
humidity in the area.
(I) SHELF LIFE
Keep the paint powder sealed until ready to use. If
it is kept dry and air-tight, it should last
indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any
period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to
chalk. When this happens, the paint won't mix up
properly and if applied can powder off. We recommend
storing unused powder in a glass or metal container with
a tight lid.
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Non-toxic Pigments, Binders and Mediums