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Our SAFEPAINT ORGANIC MILK PAINT FOR WALLS is a re-creation of the ancient MILK PAINT formula used for centuries before the sale of commercially made paints. It comes in rich colors that are durable and do not fade. Also, since our SafePaint is made from elements that pre-date the use of petrochemicals and other toxic bases and solvents, it is biodegradable, non-toxic, and odor-free when dry. SafePaint is preferred by those who are chemically sensitive and those sensitive to the need to protect the environment.
APPLICATIONS
Our SafePaint can be painted on most clean, dry surfaces. Where our traditional Old Fashioned Milk Paint prefers a porous surface, SafePaint prefers a nonporous surface. Once cured it develops excellent water resistance, however for surfaces expected to receive heavier wear, we recommend sealing with our CLEAR COAT topcoat. An oil or solvent-based sealer is recommended for kitchen applications to protect against kitchen oils such as grease splatters.
Where traditional milk paint is known for its flat, uneven, somewhat streaky appearance, SafePaint, while still a true milk paint, has a more uniform appearance, while still very flat. It is perfect for all interior wall applications both residential and commercial, including hospitals, retirement homes, schools, nurseries, offices, stores and public areas used by people allergic or otherwise sensitive to chemically based paints.
ADVANTAGES
- Environmentally safe
- Zero VOC’s- entirely solvent free
- Faint milky odor when wet, odorless when dry
- Dry to the touch in 30 minutes. To re-coat, wait two hours.
- The dry powder form mixes best with room temperature water.
- Powder in sealed bags should last indefinitely. After opening, save powder in a glass jar or covered tin or airtight plastic storage bin.
- Available in a variety of colors which can be blended, by the user, to produce many tints and shades
- Fast drying
- Non-toxic and biodegradable
- Non-flammable
- Clean up with soap and water.
- Cures, hardens, and builds a water resistance over time.
- Leftover liquid paint will last at least overnight if thinned adequately & covered tightly.
- Permanent colors do not fade.
- Flat finish
AVAILABLE SIZES
| one pint | 6 oz. powder, plus water | covers approximately 35 square feet |
| one quart | 12 oz. powder, plus water | covers approximately 75 square feet |
| one gallon | 48 oz. powder, plus water | covers approximately 300 square feet |
MILK PAINT DIRECTIONS
Very Important: Please read this entire Direction Sheet before using this product.
ALL SURFACES MUST BE CLEAN AND DUST FREE. If you can rub the palm of your hand across the wall and see dust, you will need to vacuum the wall. Very glossy surfaces must be roughed up with sandpaper before painting.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Milk Paint works on some surfaces better than others.Unless you know the condition of the surfaces beneath previous coats of finish, we do caution you about the use of SafePaint milk paint over layers of paint that may
have been applied without proper cleaning beforehand.
Milk paint dries very rapidly and shrinks in all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases to cause any weakly bonded existing underlayers to peel off, thereby creating serious problems. We also do not recommend using SafePaint over primer-sealers with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin, or any flexible caulks including silicone or latex.
OTHER PROBLEM SURFACES
Calcimine Paint: Calcimine was widely used for ceilings into the early 20th century, and contained minimal binders. It is essentially chalk.
It is almost impossible to paint anything over calcimine paint- especially milk paint. Sometimes the calcimine extends onto the upper part of a wall. If you choose to paint on
such a surface, the calcimine paint needs to be removed.
Horsehair Plaster: Plaster, especially old horsehair plaster, can be somewhat crumbly, and would not be considered a sound surface. If the walls appear to be in good shape, they must be cleaned thoroughly and should not be primed.
Old Wallpaper Paste: Wallpaper paste residues may create a problem with adhesion and or lead to the new paint cracking or peeling. It should be removed and the surface cleaned before painting.
We cannot overemphasize the importance of testing if you want to paint with milk paint on a questionable surface, and are more than happy to provide samples for your use. And, if you have any questions about surface preparation or testing, please do not hesitate to call the manufacturer, toll free at (866) 350-6455. Press 4 to reach technical assistance right away. We are available from 9 to 5 Eastern time, Monday through Friday, except holidays.
TESTING
SafePaint has excellent adhesion to most surfaces. We will be happy to send you a sample to test on your particular substrate to ensure that you will have good adhesion.
TEST SURFACE
For previously painted multiple coated surfaces, it is very important to also test the layers of paint for adhesion to each other. This is to be sure that the old paint
won’t peel off and take the new paint with it. First, cut a one inch long “X” in the old paint film with a razor blade or sharp knife. It’s best to do this in a few different
areas. Then apply a strip of masking tape over the “X,” and rub the tape on firmly. Then pull it off quickly. If the old paint comes off with the tape, you have poor adhesion,
usually created from re-painting over an unclean surface.
PREPARE SURFACE
Professional finishing practice states that any surface to be painted or repainted must be cleaned and dulled, not shiny. All grime should be removed with a washing soda such
as T.S.P. and shiny surfaces should be scuffed up with sandpaper. Surface must be clean, sound and free of oil, grease, dust and dirt. By ignoring this practice, the new paint
may not adhere well and future coats could peel off when repainted.*
***WARNING! If you scrape, sand or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE,
ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a
wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-880-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead.
REMOVE OLD PAINT
If the old paint films do have poor adhesion, we do NOT recommend painting over with any water paint, including SafePaint. The old paint should be removed by stripping or
sanding and scraping. If you don’t remove it, the new paint may lift off the old paint, at least in some areas.
NEUTRALIZE
On any surfaces that have been chemically stripped of finish, be sure to neutralize any residual chemicals by wiping the surface with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution prior
to re-painting.
PRIMERS
SafePaint is self-priming over drywall, joint compound and new plaster. If surface has been primed or previously painted apply two coats of SafePaint in a small area and test
for adhesion, as described above, after 24 hours.
SAFEPAINT MIXING AND APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS
WATER AMOUNTS
To make one pint of paint- start with 8 oz. (1 cup) water & a 1-pint package of SafePaint powder.
To make one quart of paint- start with 16 oz. (2 cups) water & a 1-quart package of SafePaint powder.
To make one gallon of paint- start with 64 oz. (2 quarts) water & a 1-gallon package of SafePaint powder.
Note: these amounts are approximate, and may vary with paint color. But they are a good place to start.
After following mixing instructions adjust paint mixture by stirring in more water if it seems to be too thick.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS
For larger quantities use a paint paddle on an electric drill and a container larger than the amount of paint you are mixing (for example use a 2 1/2 gallon bucket when mixing a gallon of paint). SafePaint mixes best with a mixer, rather than by hand. We’ve had good results using the “Exomixer” brand paint mixer, the “Original Ribbon Mixer,” which blends vertically and horizontally, and which should be readily available (we found one at Home Depot).
For small amounts use a kitchen mixer and a small round container.
It’s best to use room temperature water.
Start off with about 1/3 of the water in the bucket and gradually add paint powder while mixing to a somewhat thick consistency. Start mixing at low speed until the powder is wet, then increase to a higher speed.
The paint may start off looking foamy and frothy, which is normal.
Keep alternating powder and water in small amounts, thoroughly mixing at each step and not allowing the mixture to get too thick or dry, until you get the desired volume and consistency. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket or container while mixing. The paint should now be very smooth and not foamy.
Before pouring the mixed paint into a roller tray, check the bottom of the bucket for lumps — continue mixing until they are gone.
Stir paint every ten minutes or so while using, and add more water to achieve the proper consistency if the paint thickens. If lumps should appear as the paint sits, they will dissolve with stirring or when rolling.
It is best not to mix up more than you plan to use within a few hours. If you have paint left over, it keeps best if mixed on the thinner side, like light cream. Store in a sealed container or with saran wrap and a rubber band stretched over your mixing vessel. After sitting the paint may need to be remixed.
NOTES ABOUT ORGANIC PAINT
A natural paint like SafePaint does have its limitations and quirks, but it has inherently beautiful qualities that you will not see in a chemically based paint. Also, you may paint your bedroom in the afternoon, and sleep in it that night without having to breathe noxious fumes.
Why it’s best to mix up only what you plan to use that day if possible.
Since we choose not to use unnatural extenders or preservatives in our paint, it can thicken and gel up over time. This was true with pre-industrial era milk paint. But we think the inconvenience is worth it to keep our paint truly natural and safe.
You may also notice a slight ammonia odor when opening a stored container of liquid milk paint. This is a natural occurrence and dissipates quickly.
EXTERIOR USE
We do not recommend SafePaint for exterior use at this time until further outside exposure testing has been done.
DECORATIVE FINISHES/FAUX FINISHES
Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing, sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and not a science. Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap or at least on a test area before applying your first coat on your project. Practice and testing cannot be overemphasized. The many books and courses available will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of practice with small test samples mixed in paper cups.
INGREDIENT QUALITY
Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our SafePaint milk paint does contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives and no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The other ingredients are inert materials.
ZERO TOXICITY
SafePaint is non-toxic as it contains no petrochemicals or VOC’S. When wet, our paint has a slight earthy milk odor which will disappear in a few hours. The hydrated lime is highly alkaline, naturally anti-bacterial and lowers its alkalinity as it catalyzes with the acidic milk protein.
SHELF LIFE
Keep the paint powder sealed until ready to use. If it is kept dry and air-tight, it should last indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to chalk. When this happens, the paint won’t mix up properly and if applied can powder off. We recommend storing unused powder in a glass or metal container with a tight lid.
More Decorative Finish Recipes:
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